Montmartre – Where to Eat


I’ve mentioned in past posts that if you’re looking for good food around Montmartre, the first thing you should do is head back down the hill. Well, there’s good news for those of us who’ve been hunting for a nice spot – and still not be far from Place du Tertre.
This past Sunday we stopped in at Chez Plumeau, 4 Place du Calvaire which borders Place du Tertre. It can be pricey – if you splurge like we did – and you’re likely to want to splurge.
Our splurge was a bottle of 1989 Margaux and a glass of 30 year old Calvados. Okay so you end up doing crazy things when the ambiance is nice and it definitely was. We arrived around 7:45 pm just before every table filled up. Our waiter was witty and never condescending. He knew his wine.
He filled me in about the supposed great Bordeaux year 2000 “a lot of hype” he warned. What did he have to say about the 2005 vintage that promises to be a banner year? Well, even the primeurs are VERY expensive, he says.
But getting back to the meal.
The choices are good – several vegetarian choices in starters and main courses – and the steak for us non-converted carnivores – was tender as one would wish for with a Salers sauce.
I never would have thought it was possible to have such a well-balanced meal on the hill top, but if you look carefully enough, you can find a good meal just about anywhere in Paris.
I’m surprised I haven’t seen Chez Plumeau written up in more guidebooks. Main courses range in price from 16.50 Euros to 18.50 Euros (for our choices).

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