Sweet Desire: Window licking in the Marais


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Chocolat Mussy
Photo by Chris Card Fuller ©2007
In French, window shopping is called ‘leche-vitrine’ or window licking. You can do a lot of that in the Marais, whether you have a sweet tooth, or whether you have an eye for all that glitters. There’s much for the eyes and even more for the taste buds, but where to begin?
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Chocolats Mussy
Photo by Chris Card Fuller ©2007

I’ll have to start with chocolate, and an appropriate place to start would be Chocolats Mussy at 8, rue du Bourg-Tibourg, Metro: Hotel de Ville or Saint Paul. Normally, I try to be stoic and avoid sweet trespasses which play havoc with ‘la ligne’ or the waistline, but this time I’m on a mission. Recently on one of the BNALL Forum’s there was a post asking about good bakery and candy shops in Paris, so I decided to check out one of my bibles – Paris Pas Cher 2007 by Anne and Alain Riou. Editions du Seuil They listed three bakeries/candy stores in the Marais neighborhood – Chocolats Mussy, Boulangerie Malineau at 18 Rue Veille du Temple which is a hop skip and a jump away from Chocolats Mussy and Au Levain du Marais at 32 Rue de Turenne (3eme) located on the opposite side of Place de Vosges. Of the three, I only dared to enter Chocolats Mussy and succumbed to one bite of chocolate nirvana. For the other two addresses, looking at the displayed goodies at Boulangerie Malineau and admiring the turn-of-the-20th-century corner windows of the Au Levain bakery was enough temptation for one day.
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Boulangerie Malineau
Photo by Chris Card Fuller ©2007

But this was clearly a losing battle. Just as I stopped to take a photo of the Au Levain storefront, two girls came up to me with a tray of sliced butter cakes that they were selling as a fundraiser for summer camps for kids. Can you possibly say ‘no’ to such a good cause?
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Au Levain du Marais
Photo by Chris Card Fuller ©2007

I didn’t. Aside from exploring bakeries, patisseries, or confiseries, bakeries, pastry shops or candy shops, I also wanted to return to a shop which you may remember me mentioning last year – Gavilane at 14 Rue Malher. Its card reads “Mystic Jewelry and Decadent accessories.” Jean-Philippe told me today that Gavilane designs most of the jewelry on location. In fact, if you ask, you may even have a chance to take a peak at the atelier. Last year I was enticed by a Victorian looking bustier with lots of ribbons and embroidered flowers. This year, the focus is much more Gothic – black, gray, and crystal studded t-shirts. This is a boutique where you want to just stand still for a moment and try to ABSORB. Its attitude is subtle and totally non-aggressive. There are two other branches in the neighborhood which I have yet to visit at 8 Rue des Francs Bougeois and 39 Rue Vieille du Temple.

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Gavilane
14 Rue Malher
Tel: 01 48 87 73 13
Metro: St. Paul
(website is coming soon)

Chocolats Mussy
8 Rue du Bourg-Tibourg
Tel. 01 42 77 08 97
Metro: St. Paul or Hotel de Ville
Other address: 20-22 Rue Pasteur, 52000 Chaumont
www.chocolatsmussy.com

Au Levain du Marais
32 Rue de Turenne
Tel. 01 42 78 07 31
Metro: St. Paul
www.conseil-boulangerie.com

Boulangerie Malineau
18 Rue Vieille du Temple
Tel. 01 42 76 94 54
Metro: St. Paul
Other addresses: 20 Rue de Rivoli Metro: Bastille, 26 Rue St. Paul Metro: St. Paul, 3 Rue Vineuse 16eme metro: Passy


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