Accommodation

Choosing lodging in Paris can be daunting simply because your expectation level is high. When you’re staying in one of the world’s most beautiful cities, you might already have some images in mind - canopy beds - silk sheets -ornate moldings. The question is, how can you find romantic lodging at a reasonable price? I know if you’re reading this, you don’t have the inexhaustible budget of Marie Antoinette - who never had to look for a hotel in Paris - but nevertheless slept in palaces and dungeons. Paris has the whole gamut. Here are a few tips to start your triage process. First, a breakdown on some of the options.

Hotels

French hotels, along with Italian hotels really set the standard for me long ago. I still remember walking across the threshold of the Hotel Negresco in Nice at age 12 with a copy of Mad Magazine in my hands. One of the bell hops kept staring at me - and I realized he was staring at the back cover of my Mad Magazine. Luxury hotels may not be for everyone. You may prefer something less ostentatious - a place where you can kick back and not feel like you’re going to break everything if you sneeze - not to worry. But neither do you want to end up in dump. (Paris did not lack in that category either, until the price of real estate forced many former dumps to really start putting on the ‘ritz’).

There are plenty of comfortable, affordable hotels in Paris. That being said, when offered the opportunity to stay at a 4-star hotel (there are no 5-star hotels in France), like the Ritz or the Crillon, I wouldn’t say ‘no’, but I’d leave my magazines at home.

You will find that Right Bank hotels, primarily in the 16th and 8th arrondissement tend to be more expensive than Left Bank hotels and hotels around St. Germain-des-Pres will be more expensive than Montparnasse hotels and Blvd. St. Michel hotels (generally speaking). Other inexpensive neighborhoods (and safe) would be Rue Mouffetard (suggested by Rick Steves), Portes d’Orleans/Alesia (where I used to stay before finding an apartment), Montmartre (where you’ll find several hostels), Bois de Vincennes (where some of our friends live).
Even though some of these neighborhoods may not be as close to the major museums, the Metro will get you everywhere in no time.

What you need to know about Paris hotels

To understand the French star system - where no two stars are quite alike, read Phil Chavanne’s well-written post about the French star rating system. He explains that the rating system is based on quantity, not quality. This is a very important point. Just to give you an example, we booked a room at a chateau. The reception was so cold and unfriendly that we bolted and ended up in a one star room in an attic overlooking a town square (in Sare, Pays Basque)- and we were in heaven. (One stars are better bets outside of Paris!)

The maximum number of stars a hotel can receive in France is FOUR. For most American visitors to France, I would suggest opting for a minimum of three stars in Paris. Do not assume you’ll get spaciousness in Paris hotel rooms unless you opt for a four star hotel. Then you can expect to have a large room - and if it isn’t to your liking, don’t be shy. Ask to see another room (politely) before you unpack your bags.

Noise. If you are sensitive to noise, ask for a room not facing the street. Your room may or may not have double glazed windows.

Air conditioning. Always ask if air conditioning is available.

Other words for lodging

Hebergement means lodging or giving shelter.

Auberge
Auberge meaning ‘inn’ is often used to describe a place that provides meals and lodging. You’ll find auberges more often in a country setting. Some people will travel to an auberge specifically for the dinner and then decide to stay overnight rather than try driving home after several nice wines.

Relais
This comes from the old ‘relais de poste’ or postal relay stations established by Louis IX back in the 1400s. The earliest post was a royal messenger service which eventually was opened to use by universities, finally the public. Many of these relay stations also provided lodging for the messengers.

Chambre d’Hote or Bed&Breakfast depending on the host’s preferences, this may also include a main meal. (Always opt for the host’s meal!) If you choose to visit Paris by staying at a bed and breakfast, you may get a much more well-rounded view of the neighborhood and of the entire city. If I were looking for lodging in Paris, this would be my first choice, given the right budget.

Pension All meals included is full pension. Demi-pension is one meal. Once again, these are terms that are normally used for lodging outside of Paris.

Do not expect to find a king-size bed unless you are staying in a four-star hotel.
Beds are normally either twins, double, or queen size as the largest. (i.e 150-160 cm in width by 90 cm in length).

Hostels

There are a number of Paris hostels from which to choose - some have received very mixed reviews - so I’d suggest continuing to study the hostel forums to read the most up-to-date travelers’ comments.
Another word for ‘hostel’ in French is ‘auberge de jeunesse’.

Lodging in unusual places

You can sometimes find lodging in some places that you may not have thought of immediately such as hospitals.
Hotel-Hospitel (located adjacent to Notre Dame Cathedral offers hotel rooms to tourists - if you don’t mind walking through the hospital lobby- which includes a lovely courtyard garden.

Sacre Choeur also offers lodging for ‘pelerins’ or religious ‘pilgrims’.

Cite Universitaire at their university campus has lodging available for researchers.

‘Foyers’ provide lodging for students. The foyers can be operated by non-profit or religious organizations.
Hostels, foyers, etc. The only negative here might be the limitation on closing and opening hours. You may need to return to the foyer before midnight. If you’re a night owl, choose one of the hostels instead.

Non-profit hostels
MIJE
Description of MIJE

Catholic foyers

FIAP

Camping
Camping is possible on the outskirts of Paris and people who have camped here tell me it was a good experience.

If all else fails, and every room in town is booked, you can hop on the overnight train for Venice and save yourself the expense of sleeping in Paris altogether.

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